Drop-In Kit Instructions

 

Kramer

1. Remove all case screws from neck and body. Don't forget the one under the warranty void sticker. These will be T10 screws. Keep track of all the screws removed during this process.

2. Crack open the case! Make sure the screws are all fully removed and separate the shells. Some guitars are tight near the neck connector, but if the screws are removed, they should come apart with little force. This is the time to clean and dry your guitar shells.

Remove screws circled here, PH1 bit

3. Remove the internal electronics from the guitar including the fretboard silicone. With the Kramer, we’ll be replacing all the boards. These will be PH1 screws.

4. Install new internals! Using the same screws you took out, screw the new boards in. For the fret board, you may need to use the included washer to help hold that. To replace the whammy potentiometer, slide the whammy housing out of the slot and remove the whammy bar. Pay attention on how it goes back together, and be careful of the spring escaping. Press the shaft of the pot to remove the original, and install the new one in the same orientation. It may go in snug, but with a good press it'll go in. If there are silicone pads on the original boards, they need to be transferred to the new board. The USB-C port goes where the power switch was. The cover plate for the power switch can still be use, just remove the sliding part to create the hole for the USB-C port. Some material may need to be snipped away for it to sit properly.

5. Before putting the case back together, now is a good time to test the functions and check the troubleshooting section down below.

6. Route the cables and close the case. When closing the case make sure no wires are going to be where the screws hit. You may need to trim some plastic near the neck connector to make this easier. The pieces should go together easily and shut with little resistance.

7. Screw the shells together! Here I like to start by only screwing it near the strum bar and frets and give it another test. If everything seems right, go ahead and install the rest of the screws.

8. You’re done! Enjoy the new controller!

 

PS/Xbox Les Paul

1. Remove all case screws from neck and body. Don't forget the one under the warranty void sticker. These will be T10 screws. Keep track of all the screws removed during this process.

2. Crack open the case! Make sure the screws are all fully removed and separate the shells. Some guitars are tight near the neck connector, but if the screws are removed, they should come apart with little force. This is the time to clean and dry your guitar shells.

3. Remove the internal electronics from the guitar including the fretboard silicone. In PS controllers this will be all of them, but Xbox controllers will have the headset port that can remain. PH1 screws for most of these, T6 for some Xbox controllers.

4. Install new internals! Using the same screws you took out, screw the new boards in. For the fret board, you may need to use the included washer to help hold that. To replace the whammy potentiometer, slide the whammy housing out of the slot and remove the whammy bar. Pay attention on how it goes back together, and be careful of the spring escaping. Press the shaft of the pot to remove the original, and install the new one in the same orientation. The pot may go in snug, but with a good press it'll go in. The USB-C port goes where the RJ-11 (phone jack) port was.

5. Remove the 4 center posts on the back shell of the body. They can pretty easily be removed by grabbing them with pliers and breaking them off.

6. Before putting the case back together, now is a good time to test the functions and check the troubleshooting section down below.

7. Route the cables and close the case. When closing the case make sure no wires are going to be where the screws hit. You may need to trim some plastic near the neck connector to make this easier. The pieces should go together easily and shut with little resistance.

8. Screw the shells together! Here I like to start by only screwing it near the strum bar and frets and give it another test. If everything seems right, go ahead and install the rest of the screws.

9. You’re done! Enjoy the new controller!

 

PS WT/GH5

1. Remove all case screws from neck and body. In you don't see them, they're under the face plate! Don't forget the one under the warranty void sticker. Usually these mainly T10 screws, there are some PH1 screws near the neck connection. Keep track of all the screws removed during this process.

2. Crack open the case! Make sure the screws are all fully removed and separate the shells. Some guitars are tight near the neck connector, but if the screws are removed, they should come apart with little force. This is the time to clean and dry your guitar shells.

3. Remove the internal electronics from the guitar including the fretboard silicone. PH1 screws for these. Keep track of the screws from the strum board, these are usually longer than the rest.

4. Install new internals! Using the same screws you took out, screw the new boards in. To replace the whammy potentiometer, slide the whammy housing out of the slot and remove the whammy bar. Pay attention on how it goes back together, and be careful of the spring escaping. Press the shaft of the pot to remove the original, and install the new one in the same orientation. The pot may go in snug, but with a good press it'll go in. The USB-C port goes where the RJ-11 (phone jack) port was. PS2 models have a cover plate that can be removed and the USB board can be screwed into place with the extra screws from the mainboard.

5. Before putting the case back together, now is a good time to test the functions and check the troubleshooting section down below.

6. Route the cables and close the case. When closing the case make sure no wires are going to be where the screws hit. In some models you may need to trim some plastic near the neck connector to make this easier. The pieces should go together easily and shut with little resistance.

7. Screw the shells together! Here I like to start by only screwing it near the strum bar and frets and give it another test. If everything seems right, go ahead and install the rest of the screws. The PH1 screws near the neck connector (green in 1st photo) may be under the fret board at this point, but if you can't get them in that shouldn't affect the shell being solid, they're mostly there for the old connector that was.

8. Reinstall the face plate. After everything is tested and working well, the face plate should be able to be bent enough to get under the neck and into place.

9. You’re done! Enjoy the new controller!

 

Xplorer

1. Remove all case screws from neck and body. In you don't see them, they're under the face plate! These should be PH2 ot T10 screws. Keep track of all the screws removed during this process.

2. Crack open the case! Make sure the screws are all fully removed and separate the shells. If the screws are removed, they should come apart with little force. This is the time to clean and dry your guitar shells.

3. Remove the internal electronics from the guitar including the fretboard silicone. In most cases this will be all of them. The Xbox headset ports won’t be used, so it can stay where they are. PH1 bot for these screws. Keep track of the screws from the strum board, these are usually longer than the rest.

Note: 55 model shown, 65 USB port to go in green circle. Cables not shown for clarity

4. Install new internals! 55 models will include replacement frets, while 65 models work with stock. Using the same screws you took out, screw the new boards in. For the fret board, you may need to use the included washer to help hold that. To replace the whammy potentiometer, slide the whammy housing out of the slot and remove the whammy bar. Pay attention on how it goes back together, and be careful of the spring escaping. Press the shaft of the pot to remove the original, and install the new one in the same orientation. The pot may go in snug, but with a good press it'll go in. The USB-C port goes where the RJ-11 (phone jack) port was, the placement of which will be different between 55 and 65 models.

5. Before putting the case back together, now is a good time to test the functions and check the troubleshooting section down below.

6. Route the cables and close the case. When closing the case make sure no wires are going to be where the screws hit. The pieces should go together easily and shut with little resistance.

7. Screw the shells together! Here I like to start by only screwing it near the strum bar and frets and give it another test. If everything seems right, go ahead and install the rest of the screws.

8. You’re done! Enjoy the new controller!

 

Wii Les Paul

1. Remove all case screws from neck and body. In you don't see them, they're under the face plate! Don't forget the one under the warranty void sticker. Usually these mostly T10 screws, but there are PH1 screws on the front side shown in green. Keep track of all the screws removed during this process.

2. Crack open the case! Make sure the screws are all fully removed and separate the shells. Some guitars are tight near the neck connector, but if the screws are removed, they should come apart with little force. This is the time to clean and dry your guitar shells.

3. Remove the internal electronics from the guitar including the fret board silicone. In most cases this will be all of them. Wii analog stick is not included in this mod yet, so that can stay where it is. PH1 screws for these screws. Keep track of the screws from the strum board, these are usually longer than the rest.

4. Install new internals! Wii models should have replacement frets included. Remove the start/select silicone pads from the stock board, and transfer to the new board. Using the same screws you took out, screw the new boards in. For the fret board, you may need to use the included washer to help hold that. To replace the whammy potentiometer, slide the whammy housing out of the slot and remove the whammy bar. Pay attention on how it goes back together, and be careful of the spring escaping. Press the shaft of the pot to remove the original, and install the new one in the same orientation. Models with the metal pot may go in snug, but with a good press it'll go in. The USB-C port goes where the RJ-11 (phone jack) port was.

5. Before putting the case back together, now is a good time to test the functions and check the troubleshooting section down below.

6. Route the cables and close the case. When closing the case make sure no wires are going to be where the screws hit. You may need to trim some plastic near the neck connector to make this easier. The pieces should go together easily and shut with little resistance.

7. Screw the shells together! Here I like to start by only screwing it near the strum bar and frets and give it another test. If everything seems right, go ahead and install the rest of the screws. The screws near the neck connector may be under the fret board at this point, but if you can't get them in that shouldn't affect the shell being solid, they're mostly there for the old connector that was

8. You’re done! Enjoy the new controller!

 

Wii WT/GH5

1. Remove all case screws from neck and body. In you don't see them, they're under the face plate! Don't forget the one under the warranty void sticker. These are mostly T10 screws, with some PH1 screws near the neck connection. Keep track of all the screws removed during this process.

2. Crack open the case! Make sure the screws are all fully removed and separate the shells. Some guitars are tight near the neck connector, but if the screws are removed, they should come apart with little force. This is the time to clean and dry your guitar shells.

3. Remove the internal electronics from the guitar including the fret board silicone. In most cases this will be all of them. Wii analog stick is not included in this mod yet, so they can stay where it is.  PH1 screws for these. Keep track of the screws from the strum board, these may be longer than the rest.

4. Install new internals! Wii models should have replacement frets included. Using the same screws you took out, screw the new boards in. To replace the whammy potentiometer, slide the whammy housing out of the slot and remove the whammy bar. Pay attention on how it goes back together, and be careful of the spring escaping. Press the shaft of the pot to remove the original, and install the new one in the same orientation. The pot may go in snug, but with a good press it'll go in. The USB-C port goes where the RJ-11 (phone jack) port was.

5. Before putting the case back together, now is a good time to test the functions and check the common troubleshooting section down below.

6. Route the cables and close the case. When closing the case make sure no wires are going to be where the screws hit. In some models you may need to trim some plastic near the neck connector to make this easier. The pieces should go together easily and shut with little resistance.

7. Screw the shells together! Here I like to start by only screwing it near the strum bar and frets and give it another test. If everything seems right, go ahead and install the rest of the screws. The models with the screws near the neck connector may be under the fret board at this point, but if you can't get them in that shouldn't affect the shell being solid, they're mostly there for the old connector that was.

8. You’re done! Enjoy the new controller!

 

Troubleshooting

Whammy not working/sensitivity is off:

Calibrate with PhunkyTools Guitar Configurator 

While I do pre-program, the whammy's travel and dead zones may differ slightly depending on the guitar, so this may be needed after installation

Strum switches not resetting:

This can happen if strumming in the same direction (pressing up or down continuously instead of alternate strumming). If it is, trim the small bump on the underside of the whammy bar to give the switches some extra room of travel. Most common in WT/GH5 controllers

Strum bar not contacting switches/wobbly:

Install 3D printed switch plugs included in kit.

Strum bar getting stuck:

Check the installation of the mainboard. This usually happens when it’s not seated properly.

Buttons not responding in game:

Every kit sent out is fully tested before shipping, so when this happens it's most likely your key bindings. "joy.cpl" or "Game Controllers" can be used in Windows to test function as well. If there is something not working properly, please message me!

Fret buttons sticking when pressed:

For models which include replacement frets, use a file or sandpaper to sand the fret openings in the neck to make a little more clearance. There is sometimes an edge inside from the molding process that sticks out more than normal in some guitars. If sanding does not help, please contact me.

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